Foi no fim de 2009 que tive o prazer de conhecer esta terra que, como eu, se faz de extremos. Tinha 14 anos quando a minha mãe recebeu uma proposta para ir trabalhar para Angola, mais concretamente Luanda, e “maluca” como é, aceitou. Meses mais tarde, e bastantes lágrimas depois, lá embarquei nesta aventura pela terra dos embondeiros.
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It was in the end of 2009 that I had the pleasure to finally meet this land which, just like me, is made of extremes. I was 14 years old when my mom got a job opportunity to work in Luanda, Angola, and crazy like she is, she accepted. Months later, and a lot of tears after, I flew to the land of "embondeiros".
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It was in the end of 2009 that I had the pleasure to finally meet this land which, just like me, is made of extremes. I was 14 years old when my mom got a job opportunity to work in Luanda, Angola, and crazy like she is, she accepted. Months later, and a lot of tears after, I flew to the land of "embondeiros".
Na minha visão de “pita” de 14 anos era praticamente o fim do mundo ir para um país a quase 8h de distância de avião das minhas amigas, das minhas rotinas e dos meus solos seguros. Foi certamente por isso que passei o ano que lá estive a azucrinar a cabeça dos meus, pacientes, pais para me mandarem de volta no primeiro avião para Lisboa; resultou. Na minha visão de “pessoa de 20 anos” (sim, aos 14 somos "pitas" mas aos 20 somos velhos de mais para sermos adolescentes e novos de mais para sermos adultos) foi das maiores e melhores experiências que já tive, e se tivesse ido com outro espírito tinha aproveitado o triplo.
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In my teenage view, this was practically the end of the world: to go to a country that was at 8 hours distance of my friends, my routines, my safe and comfort zone. That was the reason why I annoyed my parents so much while I was there, for an entire year, asking them to send me in the next plane back to Lisbon. It worked. In my "20 years old person" view (because with 14 years we're teenagers but at 20 we're too old to be teenagers and too young to be adults), I know that it was one of the best experiences I have ever had and if I went with another attitude, I would have enjoyed it a lot more.
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In my teenage view, this was practically the end of the world: to go to a country that was at 8 hours distance of my friends, my routines, my safe and comfort zone. That was the reason why I annoyed my parents so much while I was there, for an entire year, asking them to send me in the next plane back to Lisbon. It worked. In my "20 years old person" view (because with 14 years we're teenagers but at 20 we're too old to be teenagers and too young to be adults), I know that it was one of the best experiences I have ever had and if I went with another attitude, I would have enjoyed it a lot more.
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| Vista Hotel Presidente, Baía de Luanda |
O que vos posso dizer sobre a minha estadia em terras de cor de tijolo é que aquele país é mesmo um país de extremos. Para começar ou se gosta ou não se gosta! Se fores com um espírito de aventura e de aceitação vais adorar a experiência, mas se fores com as “manias europeias” e o belo do salto alto então não passas do aeroporto.
A pobreza é evidente, porque é daquelas coisas que não se conseguem mascarar, mas ao invés de se sentarem no passeio de mão esticada agarram em qualquer coisa e, talvez vender não seja o termo, impingem. Acredita, se não encontrares em lojas o que procuras, vais encontrar na rua! No início vão-te pedir uma exorbitância, mas aí a táctica do meu pai não falha: usa a frase “sou pula mas sou angolano” e regateia até encontrares um preço justo. Compreende-os! É das cidades mais caras do mundo para uma população que não ganha para comer, mas que se mantém humilde e tem vergonha de comer na mesma mesa com um branco, num dos poucos centros comerciais que havia na altura.
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What I can tell you about my experience is that Angola is indeed a country of extremes. To start with, whether you like it or you just don't! If you go there with a spirit of aventure and acceptance, you'll absolutely love the experience. But if you go with your "european routines" and high heels, you won't go past the airport.
The poverty is super noticeable because it's one of those things you just can't hide. Although, instead of asking for money, they make you want to give them: believe me, if you don't find in the stores what you were looking for, you'll find it on the streets! In the beginning they'll ask you for a lot of money, but then my dad's techniques kicks in: you have to use the expression "sou pula mas sou angolano", which means "I'm a white portuguese but I'm from Angola" and negociate till you have a nice price. Understand them! It's one of the richest cities in the world with a population that doesn't even have money to buy food, but still's very humble and feel embarrassed to eat at the same table with a white guy, in one of the few shopping malls that existed at the time.
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What I can tell you about my experience is that Angola is indeed a country of extremes. To start with, whether you like it or you just don't! If you go there with a spirit of aventure and acceptance, you'll absolutely love the experience. But if you go with your "european routines" and high heels, you won't go past the airport.
The poverty is super noticeable because it's one of those things you just can't hide. Although, instead of asking for money, they make you want to give them: believe me, if you don't find in the stores what you were looking for, you'll find it on the streets! In the beginning they'll ask you for a lot of money, but then my dad's techniques kicks in: you have to use the expression "sou pula mas sou angolano", which means "I'm a white portuguese but I'm from Angola" and negociate till you have a nice price. Understand them! It's one of the richest cities in the world with a population that doesn't even have money to buy food, but still's very humble and feel embarrassed to eat at the same table with a white guy, in one of the few shopping malls that existed at the time.
Quando está calor não há ar condicionado que nos valha, e livra-te de abrir a janela, caso contrário és devorada(o) por mosquitos. Já quando decide chover o melhor é procurares a arca de Noé e esperares até o dilúvio passar. Luanda literalmente parava quando chovia!
Não posso falar de Luanda sem mencionar a Escola Portuguesa de Luanda onde concluí o 10º ano do curso de Línguas e Humanidades. A verdade é que o sistema de educação público em angola, embora não possa falar com grande conhecimento de causa, é muito limitado, mas se tiverem oportunidade de colocar os vossos filhos na Escola Portuguesa certamente não se irão arrepender. Os profissionais são excepcionais, os alunos são exemplares e as instalações fazem inveja a muitas escolas em Portugal. Aqui fica o meu mais sentido Obrigada a todos os professores, colegas e amigos com quem tive oportunidade de partilhar os melhores momentos e as maiores frustrações enquanto “pita” de 14 anos.
When it's hot, there is no airco that can help you. And you can't open a window either or the mosquitoes will eat you alive. When it decides to rain, the best is to look for Noah's Ark and wait till the water goes away. Luanda literally stopped when it rained!
I can't talk about Luanda without mentioning the Portuguese School of Luanda where I finished my 10th grade of the Languages and Humanities course. The truth is that the free education system in Angola, even though I don't know much about it, is very limited. However, if you have the opportunity to put your childrens in this school, you won't regret it. The teachers are amazing, the students are an example for everyone and the school itself is absolutely ridiculous compared to the portuguese ones. I'm very thankful to all the teachers, fellow students and friends who I had the chance to share great moments with and also my biggest frustrations while a teenager.
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| Escola Portuguesa de Luanda |
As marcas da guerra ainda estão presentes tanto nas pessoas como nos edifícios, e é por isso que ainda lhe chamo a terra dos palácios abandonados e dos paraísos perdidos. Posto isto, se tiveres oportunidade de voar até Angola não te fiques só pela Ilha de Luanda e pela Marginal, ícones na altura, mas com as melhorias que foram feitas já ouvi dizer que estão ainda mais bonitas. Se gostas de andar de barco vai até ao Mussulo, se não, viaja por terra até Sangano, onde podes comer um maravilhoso arroz de Lagosta, ou um Linguado que vem à posta (imagina só), Benguela, Barra do Dande, Barra do Kwanza, entre outros.
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The war scars are still very present, whether in people or in the buildings, and that's why I still call it the land of the abandoned palaces and lost paradises. If you ever have the opportunity to fly to Angola, don't stay just in Luanda. If you like to go on a boat, go to Mussulo. If not, drive till Sangano, where you can eat an amazing lobster rice. You can also go to Benguela, Barra do Dande or Barra do Kwanza.
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| Paraísos Perdidos, Benguela |
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| Miradouro da Lua, Barra do Kwanza |
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| Memórias da Guerra, Benguela |
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| Palácio Abandonado, Benguela |
No momento do regresso, e enquanto vais parando e parando no seu característico trânsito, espero que te lembres dela como eu: a terra dos embondeiros, das pessoas que chamavam pai grande ao meu pai e mais velha à minha mãe, dos azuis e brancos, da poeira no ar, do cheiro a terra molhada e do pôr-do-sol da cor das mangas que se compravam na rua, sem esquecer de pedir as quebra.
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When you're coming back, and while you're stuck in the usual traffic, I hope you remember this land just like I do: the land of "embondeiros", the people who called "big father" to my dad and "the oldest" to my mom, the sand in the air, the smell of wet earth and the orange sunset as the mangos that you can buy on the street without forgeting to ask for "the lost ones".
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A 4039km de distância e com muita saudade,
Filipa
P.S.: Segue a nova novela da TVI "A Única Mulher"!
4039km away missing it so very much,
P.S.: Segue a nova novela da TVI "A Única Mulher"!
4039km away missing it so very much,
Filipa
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